Rubios Trees and Landscaping
Rubios Trees and Landscaping

Rubios Trees and Landscaping

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Introduction: We are specialists in the following services: * Trimming * Cleanup * Fertilizer * Flowerbeds * Pruning * Crown * Cleaning * Topping * Cleaning * Removing Trees * Mulching * Flowers We also offer firewood for sale, with free delivery to Mansfield and South Arlington. It is difficult to choose a small sample of images that showcase 15 years of hard work; in any case, please enjoy the pictures provided, and also please stay tuned because we will be uploading new photos regularly. Perhaps one day, one will be from your backyard. Enjoy it! Lawn care basic tips are as follows: * Picture You know a healthy lawn when you see it: a smooth, lush, green carpet, perfect for cartwheels and croquet, so why doesn't your lawn look like that? Well, probably you are failing in some basic actions that you need to do to achieve your dream lawn, but keep reading and you will learn all the basic tips for a perfect lawn. * Setting Soil Planting a new lawn is like any good adventure: preparation and planning are key. No matter which planting method you use, you need to prepare the area thoroughly to banish weeds and make sure soil won't immediately crust over or compact into lumpy ruts. You can even need to go as far as testing the pH of your soil. To do this, you can buy DIY test kits that are available from nurseries and catalogs, or you can even take advantage of the testing offered by your state's designated agricultural university. One thing is true here: if you properly test your soil before doing all the work, you will save money. Start by stripping the area of all weeds, including roots, even if that means taking off the top six inches; and then rototill to a depth of at least six inches to loosen compaction and improve drainage. It's extremely important to add loam and compost to enrich the soil. Many experts suggest mixing equal parts of loam, sand and your original topsoil. You're best off in the long run if you incorporate a slight slope to facilitate drainage and prevent pooling. Finally, use a roller to pack down the soil, then grade the area with a metal rake. Be as thorough as you can. Remember, once you've put your seed or sod down, you can't go back and regrade. * To Seed or Not to Seed No question, rolling out a carpet of sod is the quickest way to a beautiful lawn; but sod can get expensive, especially if your lawn is going to cover a large area. The alternative is seeding the area yourself, either by hand or with a method called hydroseeding, which has recently become quite popular. Long used by farmers to sow large fields, hydroseeding solves one of the main problems of hand seeding: even dispersal of seeds. The grass seed, a mix of varieties blended for your climate and the type of use your lawn will get, is mixed into a pulp made from virgin wood fibers, fertilizers and binding agents. * Shave and a Haircut When it comes to sharing lawn secrets, the first one on many garden experts' lips is mowing height. Most people mow too often and too short. This will increase the stress in your grass, and you will never achieve that perfect lawn that you are looking for. In concrete, the answer is less mowing and always raising the mower to the highest possible notch. * Water, Water Everywhere The best that you can do is water only once a week, but water really deep. A weekly soaking helps roots extend deeper into the soil, while frequent shallow watering tend to lead to thatch -- that unsightly web of dry brown runners just above the soil. To figure out how much water your lawn needs, take your soil type into account: sandy soils dry out faster, while clay soils hold moisture longer and don't require watering as often. For a newly seeded lawn, water everyday for five to 10 minutes only. Your goal is to dampen the seeds without causing runoff that might wash them away or mar the surface with gullies. After the seeds sprout and the new grass is a half inch tall, water once a day for 15 to 20 minutes. * Please Feed Me Even the healthiest lawn gets hungry and needs a solid meal. Twice a year, spring and fall, is the minimum recommended for fertilization, but beware the common N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphate-potassium) fertilizers popular with most gardeners. They don't provide everything your hungry grass needs. Instead, we recommend a complete fertilizer that includes micronutrients such as sulfur, copper and iron. * Weeds, Go Away Herbicides are not essential to a healthy lawn. In fact, it is better to avoid them. The true secret to banishing weeds is to grow such healthy grass that it chokes out the invaders naturally. Mowing helps too, because it tops off weeds like dandelions and crabgrass before they have a chance to scatter their seeds. When you do find yourself compelled to do battle against a path of weeds, we recommend using one of the new "natural" herbicides that derive their potency from corn gluten, salts from fatty acids, or other non-chemical sources. * Air Supply When grass gets too compacted, nutrients can't penetrate to the root system where they're most needed. That's where aeration, poking holes in your lawn to improve oxygen circulation, comes in. Most people aerate with a simple tool that looks like two hollow tubes attached to the end of a long handle. Of course, you can also just waltz around your lawn in spiked sports shoes; that works fairly well too. * Types of Grass Some lawns have finer textures, while others feel like AstroTurf under your feet. There are hundreds of types of grass available, and new varieties are developed every year. As with all plant choices, climate plays a big role in determining which type of grass will work best for you; soil type, rainfall and other factors also come into it. As a general rule, cool-season grasses go dormant during the warm weather, and warm-season grasses go dormant during the coolest months of the year. In areas where it's possible to have a green lawn all year round, you want a mixture of both these types. Here a short list of the best options: Popular warm-season grasses: * Zoysia grass * Bermuda grass * St. Augustine grass * Bahia grass * Centipede grass Popular cool-season grasses: * Bentgrass * Bluegrass * Fine fescues * Tall fescues * Ryegrass Grasses for special needs: * Shade: - St. Augustine Grass - Fine Fescue - Tall Fescue - Ryegrass - Bentgrass * High traffic: - Zoysia Grass - Improved Bermuda Grass - Bahia Grass - Regular Bermuda Grass - Perennial Ryegrass Well, this is it. Now, you know all the basic tips for a fantastic lawn that you have been dreaming of. Good luck in your journey; and if you are in Dallas-Fort Worth area, please do not hesitate to call us for a free estimate. We will be glad to help you.
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pro avatar
Dan J.
May 7, 2014
·

Hired on Thumbtack

Hired on Thumbtack

Outdoor Landscape Design
pro avatar
John L.
May 19, 2014
·

Hired on Thumbtack

Hired on Thumbtack

Outdoor Landscape Design
pro avatar
Codie B.
Sep 3, 2014
·

Hired on Thumbtack

Hired on Thumbtack

Tree Planting
pro avatar
Matthew B.
Mar 16, 2014
·

Hired on Thumbtack

Hired on Thumbtack

Came in over double the price of other bids.
Tree Trimming
pro avatar
Monika S.
May 9, 2014
·

Hired on Thumbtack

Hired on Thumbtack

Mr. Rubios was prompt in replying and showed up on time for his appointment. I was impressed that his staff were wearing company shirts and looked professional. Mr. Rubios took care of my needs and am looking to hire him to take care of my grass.
Lawn Mowing and Trimming

FAQs

  • What types of customers have you worked with?

    Residential and commercial

  • What advice would you give a customer looking to hire a provider in your area of work?

    Lawn Care Basic Tips You know a healthy lawn when you see it: a smooth, lush green carpet, perfect for cartwheels and croquet. So why doesn't your lawn look like that? Well, probably you are failing in some basic actions that you need to do to achieve your dreamed lawn, but, keep reading and here you will learn all the basic tips for a perfect lawn. Setting Soil Planting a new lawn is like any good adventure: preparation and planning are key. No matter which planting method you plan to use, you need to prepare the area thoroughly to banish weeds and make sure soil won't immediately crust over or compact into lumpy ruts. You can even need to go as far as testing the pH of your soil. To do this you can buy DIY test kits that are available from nurseries and catalogs, or you can even take advantage of the testing offered by your state's designated agricultural university. One thing is true here, if you properly test your soil before doing all the work, you will save money. Start by stripping the area of all weeds, including roots, even if that means taking off the top six inches. Then rototill to a depth of at least six inches to loosen compaction and improve drainage. It's extremely important to add loam and compost to enrich the soil; many experts suggest mixing equal parts of loam, sand, and your original topsoil. You're best off in the long run if you incorporate a slight slope to facilitate drainage and prevent pooling. Finally, use a roller to pack down the soil, then grade the area with a metal rake. Be as thorough as you can — remember, once you've put your seed or sod down, you can't go back and regrade. To Seed or Not to Seed No question but rolling out a carpet of sod is the quickest way to a beautiful lawn. But sod can get expensive, especially if your lawn is going to cover a large area. The alternative is seeding the area yourself, either by hand or with a method called hydroseeding, which has recently become quite popular. Long used by farmers to sow large fields, hydroseeding solves one of the main problems of hand seeding: even dispersal of seeds. The grass seed — a mix of varieties blended for your climate and the type of use your lawn will get — is mixed into a pulp made from virgin wood fibers, fertilizer, and binding agents. Shave and a Haircut When it comes to sharing lawn secrets, the first one on many garden experts' lips is mowing height. Most of the People mow too often and too short, this will increase the stress in your grass and you will never achieve that perfect lawn that you are looking for. In concrete, the answer is less mowing and always raising the mower to the highest possible notch. Water, Water Everywhere The best that you can do is water only once a week, but water really deep. A weekly soaking helps roots extend deeper into the soil while frequent shallow watering tends to lead to thatch, that unsightly web of dry brown runners just above the soil. To figure out how much water your lawn needs, take your soil type into account: sandy soils dry out faster, while clay soils hold moisture longer and don't require watering as often. For a newly seeded lawn, water every day for five to 10 minutes only. Your goal is to dampen the seeds without causing runoff that might wash them away or mar the surface with gullies. After the seeds sprout and the new grass is a half inch tall, water once a day for 15 to 20 minutes. Please Feed Me Even the healthiest lawn gets hungry and needs a solid meal. Twice a year, spring and fall, is the minimum recommend for fertilization. But beware the common N-P-K (nitrogen-phosphate-potassium) fertilizers popular with most gardeners; they don't provide everything your hungry grass needs. Instead, we recommend a complete fertilizer that includes micro-nutrients such as sulfur, copper and iron. Weeds, Go Away Herbicides are not essential to a healthy lawn; in fact, is better to avoid them. The true secret to banishing weeds is to grow such healthy grass that it chokes out the invaders naturally. Mowing helps too because it tops off weeds like dandelions and crabgrass before they have a chance to scatter their seeds. When you do find yourself compelled to do battle against a path of weeds, we recommend using one of the new "natural" herbicides that derive their potency from corn gluten, salts from fatty acids or other non-chemical sources. Air Supply When grass gets too compacted, nutrients can't penetrate to the root system where they're most needed. That's where aeration — poking holes in your lawn to improve oxygen circulation — comes in. Most people aerate with a simple tool that looks like two hollow tubes attached to the end of a long handle. Of course, you can also just waltz around your lawn in spiked sports shoes — that works fairly well too. Types of Grass Some lawns have finer textures while others feel like Astroturf under your feet. There are hundreds of types of grass available, and new varieties are developed every year. As with all plant choices, climate plays a big role in determining which type of grass will work best for you — soil type, rainfall and other factors also come into it. As a general rule, cool-season grasses go dormant during the warm weather, and warm-season grasses go dormant during the coolest months of the year; in areas where it's possible to have a green lawn all year round, you want a mixture of both these types. Here a short list of the best options: Popular warm-season grasses: Zoysia grass Bermuda grass St. Augustine grass Bahia grass Centipede grass Popular cool-season grasses: Bentgrass Bluegrass Fine fescues Tall fescues Ryegrass Grasses for special needs: Shade: St. Augustine grass, fine fescue, tall fescue, ryegrass, bentgrass High traffic: Zoysia grass, improved Bermuda grass, Bahia grass, regular Bermuda grass, perennial ryegrass Well, this is it, now you know all the basic tips for a fantastic lawn that you have been dreaming of, good luck in your journey, and if you are in Dallas - Fort Worth area, please do not hesitate to call us for a free estimate, we will be glad to help you.